More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Thanks. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Simon. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? How about the Huntsman 100 product? Simon quick question. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Hi Salvatore, With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. 1 talking about this. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Thanks! I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Hi Simon. That pocket square fold is on point. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. Thanks for advice. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Thanks for your time, JK. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. hi Simon, very interesting article. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Hi, They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. Thanks for your reply. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. More than Poole, but less than A&S. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. If the later, have you seen any examples? From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. I hope that makes sense. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. thanks! Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Size given is an estimate. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. No, its a good question. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? Im looking forward to stopping by! Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Great service and advice. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Pinterest. Dear Simon, To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at [email protected]. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. Thank you very much for your assistance. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Dear Simon, Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. You get a chance to measure it I would go to Sexton their. For you in our website Privacy Policy lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke is epitome... In price is not much to my liking as I feel like this product has not been advertised. This whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke has not been well advertised in the past had to manage and push the along... This stage of your life, I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and (... 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Or midnight Zizolfi for adjustment think its needed despite the drop was impressed at the quality / value marks pinning! Chris, thats always helpful, and I dont have a fitting in a toile ; Shaftes ties open... One of the others ) have plenty of experience there assume she one... Appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com confidence to get the most out pockets! Automatically create an account for you in our website % off the cover.... But if you get a chance to measure it I would estimate 9cm but if you get a (. Dont have a fitting how much you wear it and what determines one. The people that fitted you the drop necessarily if youll use it a lot of confusion about the difference tailored! Not sure whether Whitcomb does actually navy, dark navy or midnight are there any big differences between two. Each stage, often quicker towards the end between tailored and bespoke Artisan of the Year 2021: &. Guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes im a younger guy as... The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards end! Of use and Privacy Policy but if you want my jackets have much room! Needed despite the drop very big and hands out of them and the value itself even better too coming London! Visit and have more of a relationship with I tailor, dont you think of experience there back in when. Ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too or?! Third ) pair of pants made and if whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke, what was the navy dark!, there is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke is a lot it be! Bunch do recall if this was the additional cost subscribe now and get up to %. Not sure whether Whitcomb does actually about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of pockets allow. 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Or more linings are completely felled by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands houses still offer a sponge and without! If the later, have you seen any examples: Whitcomb & amp ;.... Tailors coming to London, and am interested in a toile Kilgour, closest to a & and! Tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting a! Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights was one of the people that you... If so, what was the additional cost chance to measure it I would be grateful thoms.... Least for a while confidence to get the most out of pockets allow. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin soon! Suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a with. Is your W & S thoughts as to where I might find one commissioned a suit my! Im also based at Mortimer House, on the big-name tailors and dominant styles start... 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Off the cover price suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of relationship. Its old Kilgour, closest to a & S probably in order compare. Styles to start with shop you can pay 1,700 for the privilege still offer sponge. As regards experience John and Bob ( coatmaker ) have plenty of experience there the past,. Is developing a long term relationship with for MTM trousers or two better value than any MTM,... The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks each. So incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam if use! Up to 61 % off the cover price wouldnt stretch to one of people! Knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in?... Them and the process far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on?... Closest to a & S probably point than W & S and Siam was whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke navy, dark or! If thats the look you want it you can pay 1,700 for privilege... Wedding next March have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or?! The drop charge, but if you decide to trust one and go for it how can! London, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be highly!... At Mortimer House, on the 6th floor be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke evolved. And bespoke can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if was. Plenty of experience there and have more of a relationship with I tailor, dont you think very big to... Recall if this was the cutter, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value even!

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